These instructions apply specifically to the SID XC®.   The photos are a mix of '00 and '01 model years, which have identical internals, despite a different casting on the lowers and different air caps.



(1) If you are performing the work with the fork attached to the bike, disconnect the brake cable and computer lead, etc.. Use a small screw driver to depress the air valves and release air pressure. (The air valve pictured is the '00 recessed style) NOTE: While this seal changing proceedure may be performed without venting the air, it is recommended for safety purposes.

(2) Remove the external rebound adjuster by pulling straight down.

(3) PLACE A LARGE BUCKET UNDER THE FORK TO CATCH THE OIL THAT WILL DRAIN OUT. Use properly sized allen wrenches to back out the screws in the bottom of the lowers. Back the screws out until about 1/4" of threads is visible (do not remove them completely).

(4) Use a plastic-faced mallet or other means to protect the screws as you give each side a sharp upward blow to release the rods from the bottom of the lowers. If done correctly, the threads visible in picture #4 will have been driven up into the slider assembly, as in picture #5 (below). BE PREPARED FOR OIL AT THIS POINT.


(5) Once you have properly released the rods, remove the screws.

(6) Allow the oil to drain completely. Seperate the lowers from the stanchions by putting leverage between the fork crown and the arch of the lowers. Once the lowers begin to slide, simply pull them off. Help the remaining oil to drain by pumping the rods into the stanchions a few times.

(7) Remove the dust seal/wipers by carefully inserting a small screw driver under the outer lip of the wiper. Rockshox recommends covering the tip of the screw driver with a cloth, but it is very difficult to fit even a bare, tiny blade between the lip and the top of the lowers. It is recommended to leave the very end of the blade bare and some electrical tape around the balance of the blade to protect the paint on top of the lowers. Once the blade is pushed under the lip, exert downward pressure on the handle of the screw driver (DON'T TWIST). Don't expect a lot of movement--keep moving the blade to different positions around the wiper, insert it and pry straight up until it slowly begins to move. Once a small gap is visible, add a second small screw driver opposite the first to pry the wiper up and out.


-1999 and earlier RockShox forks used a single "seal/wiper" unit and had a shallow bore in the seal-head area of the lowers. These early forks will not accept an oil seal. For forks that are stricly grease-lubed, this is not a problem and you may install the wipers (less oil seals). However, if your fork is oil bath, and you do not have enough bore depth to accept both the Enduro oil seal and wiper, you will not be able to use our seal kit (we have OE "XXX" Wiper/Seals available).

-The later SID forks also come with a single "seal/wiper" unit, but have enough bore depth to accept the Enduro inner oil seal and wiper (discard the foam rings).


(8) Locate the point between the oil seal and the upper bushing (in the picture, you can see the black oil seal on top, and the lighter colored upper bushing just below it). It is important to note that the bushing is a soft metal and can easily be scored or dented. Insert a medium-sized flat blade screw driver between the upper bushing and the oil seal. Be careful not to gouge the bushing with the screw driver (Hint: resist the urge to twist the screw driver blade).

Note that the screw driver shaft has been wrapped in rubber electrical insulating tape where it contacts the slider assembly (standard vinyl electrical tape can also be used).

(9) Pry the seal straight up by putting downward pressure on the handle of the screw driver. As the seal begins to lift up, be sure and that the screw driver is not actually up against the back of the seal seating area (you don't want to scratch the metal as the screw driver comes up).

(10) Clean out the inside of the lowers. If the old oil was particularly dirty, you may need to use some degreaser. Be sure the lowers are completely clean and dry before proceeding.

(11)  NOTE: The oil seal picured is of the old-style "U-Cup" inner oil seal.  All kits are now shipped with a black oil seal.  Remember, numbers and letters face upwards, away from the oil  The "groove" and garter spring face downward, toward the oil. 

Lubricate the new inner oil seals and the oil seal seating area with Super Slick grease. 


(12) Start one side of the black oil seal into the lowers. Remember that the lettering on top of the oil seal should face up--or, in other words, grooved side down. Using your thumbs, work the seal into place and push it down. Because the seal is relatively flexible, you should be able to fully seat it against the upper bushings with a moderate amount of effort. If you have difficulty, please go to Step (13), otherwise, proceed to Step (14).

(13) If you have difficulty seating the inner oil seals, rest the bottom of the lowers against a pad of some sort (carpet, etc.) and press the seal into the lower using a 27mm socket (turned upside down so that the broad, flat surface is pushing against the seal). Use a socket extention or, as pictured, a piece of PVC pipe to push on the socket. Exerting even downward pressure, fully seat the oil seals.

(14) Lubricate the outer edges of the new dust seal/wipers.

(15) Lubricate the inside of the sliders.


(16) Install the wipers by starting an edge into the hole and applying pressure with your thumbs to "flex" the rest of the leading edge into the hole. This may take a little practice. One thing to remember is to not insert the edge of the wiper too far into the hole initially, or the angle will be to "steep" for the rest of the wiper to enter. Rely on the (slight) flexibility of the wiper, the lubrication, and the principle of not over-inserting the edge of the wiper into the lower on the initial start. Remember also to rest the bottom of the lowers on the floor (using a pad) so that you can use your body weight to fully seat the wipers once they have been evenly started. If you have difficulty pushing the wipers in by hand, try using a piece of PVC pipe. Using the pipe allows weight to be applied evenly, and make corrections if the wiper begins to start unevenly. By keeping the wiper straight and applying body weight to the pipe, the wiper can be fully seated.

TIP: If you have difficulty inserting the wipers, place them in a freezer for a few minutes.   This will cause the inner steel sleeve to contract, reducing the outside diameter and easing the installation.

(17) At this point, add about 35 PSI to each air chamber (this allows the fork to accept the full volume of oil that you will soon be adding). After adding the air, you will want to complete the following steps with the fork inverted. Start the lowers onto the stanchions. Sometimes it is easier to get one wiper barely started on its respective stanchion and then get the second one started. Once the lowers are started, slide them down until just before the stanchions enter the lower bushings.

(18) Add 10cc of RockShox RedRum oil through the screw hole on the non-damping, non-rebound side of the fork (this is on the rider's left when on the bike). NOTE: Some individuals have reported problems with RedRum oil thickening, or, for other reasons, are not happy with its performance. As a matter of personal preference, you may use 15wt fork oil in place of the RedRum.


(19) Slowly add 100cc of 15wt fork oil through the screw hole on the damping/rebound side of the fork (to the rider's right). It is helpful to add some of the oil and then put a rag over the hole and move the sliders up and down on the stanchions a couple of inches to help the full volume of oil to enter the fork. Once the full 100ccs of oil has been added, you are ready to slide the lowers into their proper position. A WORD OF CAUTION: Even after adding air as instructed above (step 17), if you do not slide the lowers into place on the stanchions very SLOWLY and carefully, you will get an oil "geyser" out of the screw hole of the damper leg! Putting a cotton rag over the hole with your finger on top while sliding the lowers into place can help keep the fork from spewing oil.

(20) Replace the screws through the lowers and into the rods. REMEMBER THE HOLLOW SCREW WITH THE O-RING ON THE OUTSIDE GOES INTO THE DAMPING/REBOUND LEG (to the rider's right). Torque screws to 60 inch pounds. RockShox uses "crush washers" with a rubber seal on these screws. They can usually be removed and re-installed a couple of times and still seal correctly. If signs of oil leakeage occur around the screws, you may need to replace the crush washers.

(21) To finish this process off right, why not change the small amount of oil in the air chambers, as well? First, relieve air pressure through the topcap valves ('01 XC with standard Shrader-type valves is pictured).

(22) Use a socket to loosen the topcaps, then unthread by hand.


(23) Remove existing oil by pouring out and wiping with a clean, dry cloth. Dump the contents of one RWC Air Piston Lube "pillow pack" on top of each air piston. You may also use a heavy gear oil in place of the Air Piston Lube.

(24) Replace the top caps, torquing them to 60 inch pounds.

(25) Pressurize air chambers based on your weight and personal preferences.

(26) Go ride!


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