These instructions apply specifically to the X-FLY 80. However, the critical steps of wiper and oil seal removal, the preparation of your fork, and the installation of the new inner oil seals and dust seal/wipers, are the same for all BOMBER series forks. Our goal is to add many more model-specific instruction pages as time goes by. In the meantime, we trust that these instructions will be very helpful. THERE ARE CRITICAL TIPS CONTAINED WITHIN THESE INSTRUCTIONS THAT DIFFER FROM CONVENTIONAL SEAL INSTALLATION.



TIP: To make some of the subsequent steps a little easier, remove just the wipers from your new Enduro Seal Kit and place them in a freezer (this will cause the inner steel sleeve to contract, reducing the outside diameter and easing installation).

If performing the work with the fork attached to the bike, disconnect the brake cable, computer lead, etc.... Use a small screw driver to depress the air valves and release pressure. NOTE: The brake bosses on the pictured fork have been removed and replaced with a factory replacement bolt. NO OTHER BOLTS CAN PERFORM THIS FUNCTION.

(2) Loosen both top caps using a 21mm socket (13/16" is also a perfect fit). The left cap (from rider's perspective) can be taken off and set aside.

(3) The right leg top cap is attached to the hydraulic cartridge assembly. Compress the sliders (fork lowers) against the crown in order to raise the hydraulic cartridge and top cap as in picture (4).

Secure the check nut with a 10mm wrench and loosen the cap from the hydraulic cartridge with 21mm socket.


(6) Once loosened, unthread and remove the cap from the hydraulic cartridge.

(7) Push the stanchions completely into the sliders and pour out the oil, pumping the lowers on the stanchions several times.

(8) With fork inverted, use a 15mm socket to loosen the foot nuts. BE READY TO CATCH THE RESPECTIVE INTERNALS THAT WILL DROP OUT: the hydraulic cartridge from the right leg, (9) and pumping rod assembly from the left leg,(10).


(11) Note the springs and foot washers on the internals of both lowers. Be sure to keep these parts in order (it would be especially easy to lose the foot washers off of the ends). Pull the sliders off of the stanchions.

(12) THIS NEXT STEP DIFFERS FROM THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, which recommends removing the wipers by prying them up around the outer edge with a small screw driver.  This is ineffective since the wipers have no lip around the edge (it's also an easy way to scratch the paint). THE BETTER WAY TO REMOVE THE DUST WIPERS: Insert a flat blade screw driver under the inside, bottom edge of the wiper, as pictured.  As you lower the handle of the screw driver to pry out the wiper, the back edge of the wiper will fold down and serve to protect the paint from the screw driver shaft.

(13) As you slowly apply increased prying pressure on the wiper, it will break loose and lift up out of the sliders.

(14) Remove the stop rings by alternately prying behind the detents on either side of the split.

(15) Marzocchi recommends the use of their "slider protector" for this next step. It is suggested that you save your money (the hole is almost centered in the slider opening, which makes a very steep angle for the screw driver). Instead, wrap the shaft of the screw driver where it contacts the upper edge of the sliders with rubber electrical insulating tape (standard vinyl electrical tape will also work).

(16) Pry the oil seal out while taking care not scratch the inside of the sliders as the screw driver comes up.

(17) Lift the washer out of each side of the sliders.

(18) If the inside of the fork is particularly dirty, remove the bushings. You will notice that the bushings have a full-lenght slot. Use a couple of small screw drivers to flex the bushing inward (reducing the OD of the bushing as the gap closes) and allowing it to be lifted out. It is OK to pry up lightly under the lip of bushing--if the edge bends a little, it can be easily straightened.


(20) Beginning with one side of the lowers, re-install the bushing.

(21) Install the metal washer on top of the bushing.

(22) GENEROUSLY LUBRICATE THE INNER AIR/OIL SEAL. Use a Marzocchi seal press or an inverted socket to fully seat the seal (note that the inner oil seals currently shipping with the Bomber Kit have been upgraded and differ in appearance with those pictured).

(23) Insert the stop ring on top of the inner oil seal by starting the "closed" end of the ring into the sliders and pushing the two ends down into place (THE STOP RING SHOULD SNAP SECURELY INTO PLACE). Repeat the bushing, washer, oil seal, and stop ring installation for the other side.

Installing the wipers can be a challenge if they are started unevenly. Inspect the top of the sliders to be sure that there are no burrs and that no paint is extending past the edge where the wipers go in. Remember to generously lube the sliders and the outside edge of the wipers.

(24) If you followed the "Tip" at the beginning of these instructions, remove the wipers from the freezer. If you have a Marzocchi 30mm seal press, it can be used to install the wipers, but is not necessary. If you do not have a seal press, OR IF YOU ARE HAVING DIFFICULTY SEATING THE WIPERS EVEN WITH A SEAL PRESS, PROCEED TO THE NEXT STEP. Otherwise, support the bottom of the sliders on a pad and apply body weight to the seal press. As the wiper begins to press in, check to be sure it has started evenly. If it has, continue to apply weight to the press and the wiper should seat properly.

(25) If you successfully installed the wipers in the previous step, proceed to (26). Obtain a short piece of 1-1/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe. Set the wiper on the pipe upside down (wiper lip facing down) and lubricate the outside edge of the wiper, and the inside of the lowers where the wiper will seat.

(26) Invert the lowers and carefully center one leg over the wiper that is resting on the PVC pipe section. Slowly apply body weight to the leg until the wiper starts. Increase the amount of weight applied to the leg until the wiper is fully seated against the retaining clip. Repeat this procedure for the other wiper. After lubricating the inside of the seals and wipers, and the outside of the stanchion tubes, re-insert the stanchions into the lowers. Best results are obtained by barely starting one wiper onto a stanchion and then starting the second one while holding the first one in place.)

(27) Work with the fork inverted, inserting the Hydraulic Cartridge into the right leg and starting the foot nut.

(28) The Pumping Rod is short and will not reach up to where it attaches to the foot nut without "cheating." THE METAL ROD SHOWN IN PICTURES 28 AND 29 IS BEING USED AS A TOOL TO FULLY INSERT THE PUMPING ROD UP TO THE FOOT NUT. IT IS NOT PART OF THE FORK.

(29) Use something similar to the rod pictured to insert the pumping rod into the left leg and start the foot nut.


(30) Torque the foot nuts to approximately 9 FT LBS. Cycle the fork several times throught its full range of travel to be sure everything is functioning properly.

(31) With the fork fully compressed, add the proper amounts of 7.5 weight oil to each side. Pump the hydraulic cartridge a few times to purge air. During the filling process, extend and compress the fork a few times. Fill each stanchion tube to within 45mm of the top of the crown (where the top cap screws in) Again, with the fork fully compressed. Heavier riders may want to add oil to within 40mm of the top cap opening.

(32) Start the right top cap on the hydraulic cartridge. Thread it on by hand until you reach the "check nut."

(33) Use a 10mm wrench to hold the check nut while tightening the top cap to 10-12 Inch Pounds.

(34) Screw the top caps into the stachions.

(35) Tighten the top caps to between 9 and 10 Foot Pounds.


(36) Add the proper amount of air to each leg according to your weight and riding style.

(37) Ready to rock...



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